Month: September 2022

 

Welcome to your French guide: the French Art of Living 

 

 

Paris, the city of light and the city of love, the Champs Elysées, Haute Couture and its designers, skincare brands, perfumes, cuisine, good cuisine and even excellent cuisine, without forgetting the wine and the famous and real champagne!

France is the country of excellence and “savoir-faire”. Everything is refined and all the senses are awakened.

But what about the French? How do they live, what are their habits?

What is the French lifestyle? 

You can easily recognize a French person by the strong English accent but may be even more easily by the way of life, the way of being, the attitude in general…
Sometimes loved, sometimes hated, French people are unique and here are some tips if you want to embrace the French way of life!

 

15 Tips on how to adopt the French lifestyle or “l’Art de vivre à la Française”

1/ Be a “Flâneur”

“Flâner” which could be almost translated as “to stroll”, is such a French concept that the word has no real English equivalent. The “flaneur” is someone who, anchored in the present, walks around a city with no destination in mind but with the objective to observe the world in a philosophical way. Spend some time walking around your neighbourhood, go where you feel like going and discover places you may have never seen before. Today, Paris remains the ideal city to flâner. Walk, sit on a café terrace, and take the time to look around you. Paris is full of details and surprises, don’t miss them!

2/ Master The Art of Discretion

French people live and breath discretion; they don’t smile too much, don’t talk too loudly, and don’t often show their excitement or enthusiasm. “Pour vivre heureux, vivons cachés” by French poet Jean-Pierre Claris de Florian —literally in English: “To live happily, live hidden”. This means that happiness consists in living humbly and being modest even in times of great success. Living like the French means being discreet. Don’t show all your cards too early in a relationship. Don’t attract attention, don’t show off your wealth, don’t laugh too loudly… it’s all about staying mysterious but charming!

3/ Don’t talk about Money

In France, the only thing we don’t talk about is money. According to a study, 78% of French people think that being rich is frowned upon in their society —this belief is shared by all categories of the population, regardless of their income level — whereas 72% think it’s a good thing to want to be rich. In fact, in France, it’s more taboo to talk about money than to talk about sex…

4/ Visit Museums

French museums are among the most important and famous in the world. The Louvre Museum is even the most visited in the world, with around 10 million visitors per year. French people really like Arts and visiting a museum is a very common activity to do during the weekend. Access to culture is easy and not expensive, you can spend the day in one of the big and famous museums but Paris and most of the French cities are full of smaller museums or Art galleries, less known but just as interesting and less visited by tourists!

5/ Get into Philosophy

Voltaire, Rousseau, Montesquieu, Diderot… these French philosophers have played a major role in French history and culture and in inspiring the French Revolution in 1789. They wanted new models of society based on Freedom and Equality. This movement is called “la philosophie des Lumières” (the philosophy of enlightenment), because the philosophers proposed to “enlighten” the greatest number of people on how to live happily and found a just society. The French approach to education emphasises reflection and developing a critical mind. Freedom of expression allows each of us to offer our opinion without constraint.

6/ Master the Art of Conversation

Whether at a dinner party or in a café, French people would prefer a long deep conversation about certain things than a short and quick talk about nothing and it doesn’t matter if it leads to great controversy! The French like to debate on all types of subjects: societal, political or religious themes rather than having polite conversations on unimportant topics which, let’s be honest, can be boring. The French attach great importance to education and knowledge. Take the time to read the news, refresh your history, and get to know the key cultural figures if you want to impress a French person and master the Art of French conversation.

7/ Say “Non” more often

No one else knows how to say ‘No’ quite like the French do. The French are a people of protest, to strike is a right and they are often in the street to protest. From a social claim to a wage claim, the reasons for strikes are diverse and varied. But that does not mean that the French are fundamentally negative. The French are definitely more comfortable saying “no” than in other countries and this makes the French cold and arrogant. But learning to say no can be an effective skill to help you gain respect, prioritize your needs, and determine appropriate boundaries. Saying no is actually a healthy part of life and helps avoid being taken advantage of. So ask the French people around you for advice and don’t hesitate to say no when you disagree or when you don’t feel like.

8/ Learn the Art of “Râler“

French people love to complain. But in reality, they are not complainers, they are just “râleurs”. The French are much more comfortable with confrontation or criticism than in other countries. And “râler” is more like a tic and a cultural habit. It can be a way to open a conversation: one’s can complain about the weather, the government, transport… It’s a way to invite other people’s opinions, but above all, it’s a means to connect, build intimacy, and bond with others. In France, someone who is too optimistic about things can be seen as naïve and insincere and on the contrary, sharing good and bad things in life is seen as a sign of authenticity.

9/ Be Authentic

One can blame French people for being rude or mean but can never blame them for being authentic and honest. Authenticity is a quality dear to the French.

10/ Shop from the Farmers Markets

Food, but especially good food, is sacred in France. In any city in France you will find local farmers’ markets where you can buy seasonal fruits and vegetables. In addition to local markets, the French buy meat from the butcher, bread from the boulangerie, sweets from the patisserie… Everything is so incredibly fresh and tastes so much better this way.

11/ Learn French Cuisine and Host Dinners

French cuisine is considered by many to be the most prestigious and respectable cuisine in the world. The French love to host dinners at home, probably much more often than eating out. They invite friends and exchange stories over a bottle of wine and a good plate of cheese! In France, you know you’ve really made friends with someone when they invite you to one of the dinner parties they host with their other friends. French people love to receive and it is part of the “art de vivre”. Advice: never show up on time for a French dinner but arrive about 15 minutes late in case the host is running behind!

12/ Enjoy a French “Apéritif”

In France, the traditional apéritif is a cultural ritual and a French custom that you can adopt everywhere. The French apéritif is a pre-dinner drink, a moment of sharing —with family or friends, and preparing your palate for the meal to follow. The apéritif, also called an “apéro” for short in France, is not just about the food and drink (though those are certainly important) but it’s about taking a moment to reset and appreciate life. It isn’t traditional to have this with every meal but more when sharing with friends and family —either at home or at a restaurant.

13/ Take long Lunch Breaks

Lunch time breaks in France are a sacred thing. Between 12:30 p.m. and 2 p.m., the whole country sits down to eat. French people don’t snack all day and having a proper lunch means eating seated, at fixed hours and with friends or colleagues.

14/ Spend your Sundays à la Française

Sunday in France is sacred. The French Sunday is a dedicated day for doing absolutely nothing except spending time with family. The French are known for their long Sunday lunches “déjeuners dominicaux” that stretch into the afternoons. It’s the perfect day to take the time to sleep, eat, to visit family and relatives. Sunday in France is a time for everyone to just “être” (to be).

15/ Take pleasure in the Small Things

Taking time to slow down and appreciate the little things in life. It can be buying a bouquet of fresh flowers, baking a cake, having a coffee or reading a book. Stop waiting for someone to give you a call to cheer you up you are your own source of happiness. If your happiness comes from doing nothing, then just don’t do it.

 

 

Skin on the face is particularly exposed and stimulated, which is why skin aging is often most visible there. Wrinkles and fine lines are the main visible markers of this skin aging phenomenon. They start to become visible at the age of 25 and progressively expand and deepen until menopause, a time when hormones decline and the process speeds up.
The wrinkles are 100 micrometres to several millimetres deep. They are linear ridges in the skin that are visible to the naked eye; they are bound by two edges forming a “rim” and are generally bilateral and symmetric.

 

When observed under a microscope, the skin is not completely smooth and even. In fact, it has folds of varying sizes and forms a grid of sorts. With age, the largest folds deepen while the smallest folds are reduced until they completely disappear. These phenomena disrupt the established grid, giving rise to visible wrinkles.

There are two types of wrinkles:

• Static wrinkles, which are due to the aging of the skin and may be intensified by internal (genetic) and external (sun, pollution, etc.) factors.
• Dynamic wrinkles, or expression lines, which are due to repeated muscle contraction experienced by certain facial areas, like around the eyes and mouth.

 

1/ Static Wrinkles

All of the internal and external factors generating aging mechanisms will cause structural, functional and morphological changes to the skin that lead to wrinkle formation.

• Genetic Influence: Each individual is genetically programmed. We all have our own biological clock that determines the pace at which our skin ages. Internal aging is the result of our own body function. It is a slow process that leads to changes in the skin’s structure and function. Chromosomes, i.e. the carriers of an individual’s genetic heritage, become shorter with every cellular division. When they have become too short, the cells stop dividing and enter the senescence stage, more or less quickly depending on the individual. Different skin types are unequal when it comes to cutaneous aging. For example, wrinkles develop earlier on fair and sensitive skin than on Asian skin, which may however be predisposed to uneven pigmentation. Dryness caused by aging may also be induced by genetic heritage.
• Skin tissue changes: Many histological (study of biological tissues) changes to the epidermis, dermis and hypodermis occur with age. They cause changes to the thickness, hydration, barrier function and skin support tissues.
  We will focus on changes that occur in the dermis, which is the support tissue between the epidermis and the hypodermis. Among other things, it is composed of support fibers:

– Elastin fibers that give the skin elasticity and tone

– Collagen fibers that give the skin solidity and resistance

In the dermis, the decreasing size and number of fibroblasts leads to the reorganization of the dermal architecture. Thus, altered dermal elastin fibers lead to loss of suppleness, firmness and elastase-induced superficial atrophy. From the age of 20, each woman loses 1 percent of her collagen each year, on average. Collagen fibers break and become scarcer with age. They degrade and no longer correctly play their role as skin support.

– Type I collagen predominates as the fibers become more rigid and less supple. Sclerosis becomes apparent, characterized by loss of skin firmness.

– Type III collagen production declines and collagenase destroys fibers.

– Glycation: a chemical process that bonds excess sugars in the body to collagen fibers. These fibers become rigid and then clump together, losing their suppleness and tearing off. Wrinkles appear and the skin sags. In addition, enzymes that normally prevent glycation in young skin no longer fulfill their role.

• Exposure to UV rays: The sun and UV rays are the main causes of cutaneous aging. The sun acts positively on our bodies, by participating in the synthesis of vitamin D, but for this to happen, we only need 10 minutes of sunshine per day. Prolonged, repeated and unprotected exposure to ultraviolet radiation causes photo-aging, i.e. premature skin aging with both superficial and deep effects. Ultraviolet radiation accelerates cutaneous aging because it damages our skin cells by altering their membrane and breaking their DNA strand. As a result, the cells are no longer capable of working correctly and start to produce less collagen and elastin. The skin is weakened. It becomes thinner, drier and thus less elastic. Wrinkles appear.

=> more information on the sun and the skin

• Pollution and tobacco: Atmospheric pollutants and tobacco weaken the skin’s protective hydrolipidic film and generate free radicals with high oxidative power, contributing to accelerated skin aging. The harmful effects of pollutants are visible in the short term and in the long term, due to a cumulative effect. Exhaust emissions and other hydrocarbons gradually asphyxiate the skin, resulting in a loss of radiance, suppleness and hydration. The toxic products in cigarettes degrade the fundamental structures of the dermis, trigger the production of poor-quality elastin, and destroy collagen. The skin struggles to dispose of waste, which accelerates cutaneous aging.
• Other external factors: Stress, excess alcohol, an unbalanced diet or an unhealthy lifestyle are elements that rob the skin of its vitality and radiance. In particular, it becomes tense under the effects of stress and fatigue, causing muscle tension and thus the formation of lines. With overwork, or due to inadequate daily nutrient intakes, the cells draw on dermal reserves more intensely to obtain nutrients and cope with the situation: the skin lacks essential elements such as vitamins, trace elements, essential fatty acids, etc. Although it is impossible to combat genetics, it is possible to slow down the effects of cutaneous aging by targeting external factors, adopting a healthy lifestyle, protecting the skin from external attacks and the sun, and relaxing the muscles responsible for expression wrinkles thanks to specific skincare products.

 

2/ Dynamic Wrinkles

The movements generated by contracting subcutaneous muscles create tension that modifies the dermis and promotes the formation of expression wrinkles. Around 30 muscles are involved in facial expression and control the movements induced by our expressions (smiling, frowning, grimacing, etc.). Every day, around 15,000 movements of the facial muscles generate tension that reaches the dermis, causing wrinkles and fine lines to appear. Some areas of the face, such as the forehead, eyes, nose and lips, are strained more than others and are then prematurely marked.

• Eye contour area: The skin of the eye contour area is constantly under pressure. Our eyes blink more than 10,000 times a day and 22 muscles are activated every 10 seconds to ensure that the cornea is continuously hydrated. To facilitate this mobility, the skin around the eyes is extremely thin and light. It is 3 to 5 times thinner than the rest of the facial skin, and is therefore the most fragile and vulnerable area.As with the rest of the face, it consists of three superimposed layers (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis). However, these layers have different thicknesses and compositions:

– The epidermis in the eye contour area is almost devoid of sebum and the hydrolipidic film that covers it is therefore deficient. Its thickness is reduced to 0.33 to 0.36 mm compared with 1 to 1.6 mm for the rest of the face.

– The dermis in the eye contour area lacks sebaceous and sweat glands but is well vascularized. It does not have many support fibers (collagen and elastin), which makes it particularly sensitive to sagging. It is only 0.5mm thick whereas it is 1 to 2 mm thick over the rest of the face.

– The hypodermis, or subcutaneous tissue, in the eye contour area does not contain many adipose cells and is easily distended.

Lacking in collagen, elastin and adipose cells, the eye contour area is prone to dryness. Continuous muscle movements deteriorate the fibers more rapidly, which become less firm, therefore causing the skin to sag, which is often the first sign of aging.
The eye contour is an area particularly sensitive to aging. It is so fragile that it lacks resistance against external attacks such as pollution, gravity or solar rays. The eye contour area tends to age prematurely. With time, the elastic fibers and collagen fibers alter, which results in the sagging and a deterioration of the lower eyelid. In addition, early signs of fine lines appear around the sensitive area of the eyes: the first expression lines take shape at the outer corner of the eye and form “crow’s feet.”

=> Biologique Recherche eye care protocol

 

• Lip contour area: As with the skin of the eye contour area, the skin of the lip contour is one of the most fragile areas of the face. The mouth is constantly moving when we speak and eat and, over time, these repeated contractions are responsible for the progressive appearance of expression lines around the mouth. The lips are made up of three anatomical units; each unit undergoes a specific weakening process, which compromises the structure and resistance of the mouth:

– The red lip: the mucous part.

– The vermilion border: the separation between the red and white lips. This is a genuine arch supporting the architecture of the lips.

– The white lip: the lip contour. The upper lip starts at the end of the nose and extends to the vermilion border. The lower lip starts just above the chin.

Red lips age first by sagging and then becoming thinner. They successively suffer from dehydration, loss of volume and loss of tone until they can no longer effectively fulfill their support function. The vermilion border progressively becomes fragile and ultimately loses its strength, resulting in a loss of relief and structure, as wrinkles progressively appear on the lip contour. White lips are affected by the appearance of vertical wrinkles: the “sun crease” wrinkles. The weakening of the dehydrated red lips and loss of tone of the vermilion border undermine the white lips. An increasing number of small fine lines appear, followed by wrinkles, becoming deeper and deeper, on the lip contour.

 

Biologique Recherche Solution

Depending on your Skin Instants©, Biologique Recherche has many options to treat wrinkles and fine lines.

As there are many different types and causes of lines and fine lines we invite you to contact your nearest Biologique Recherche centre for a skin diagnosis by using the Biologique Recherche diagnostic tools: the Skin Instant Lab and/or the Visiolab.

=> Book now your Skin diagnosis at The Beauty Embassy 

            

 

 

 

The sun is a star located about 150 million kilometres from Earth whose light takes 8 minutes and 18 seconds to arrive here. Without it, there would be no life on Earth; it would be pitch-black and very cold.
The nuclear reaction in the sun’s core creates large amounts of radiation. This energy, also called the electromagnetic spectrum, occurs in the form of radio waves, microwaves, infrared radiation, visible light, ultraviolet rays, X-rays, and gamma radiation.
Depending on the wavelength, these different kinds of solar radiation have different impacts:

• Infrared waves create heat
• Visible light allows us to see
• Ultraviolet rays have effects on our health

The level of ultraviolet rays that reach the Earth’s surface depends on the distance that they travel in the atmosphere. Thus, the shorter the path, the more UVB there will be. This is why the level of ultraviolet radiation that reaches the Earth’s surface depends on a number of factors:

• The ozone layer
• The seasons
• Time of the day
• Latitude
• Altitude
• The albedo (the level of radiation reaching the Earth’s surface that is then reflected (sand, snow)
• Meteorological conditions

 

The different types of UV

Ultraviolet radiation is invisible and has a wavelength from 200 to 400 nanometres. Its wavelength is shorter than visible light and contains more energy. Depending on the wavelength, it can travel through the ozone layer and has different effects on health. The shorter the wavelength, the more harmful it is; however, it will also have greater difficulty penetrating the skin. Ultraviolet radiation is divided into three bands:

1/ UVC rays

UVC rays have a wavelength from 200 to 280 nm and are the UV rays with the most energy. They are extremely dangerous to all forms of life (even in very weak doses). The percentage of UVC rays reaching the Earth’s surface is minimal: as soon as they arrive in the atmosphere, a photochemical reaction (that requires the presence of light) occurs with the ozone. In this way, 99% of UVC rays are absorbed by the atmosphere, thanks to the ozone layer. The minuscule portion of these UV rays that get through the atmosphere have difficulty penetrating the skin, as they are stopped by the epidermis.

2/ UVB rays

UVB has a wavelength from 280 to 315 nm and is 100 times less common than UVA. A large portion of UVB is absorbed by the ozone layer. Only 2 to 5% of UV rays reach the surface of the Earth, although they remain highly energetic. They primarily penetrate the horny layer of the epidermis. Only 10% reach the dermis.

Impact on the skin:

They are responsible for long-term tanning and sunburn, as well as for most skin cancers.

• Anti-rickets action: The synthesis of vitamin D takes place in the deepest part of the epidermis under the influence of UVB rays. Vitamin D3 increases the intestinal absorption of calcium, improves the mobilization of calcium and phosphorus in the bones, and suppresses the secretion of parathyroid hormones. Fibroblasts and keratinocytes possess vitamin D3 receptors. Vitamin D3 inhibits the proliferation of keratinocytes and participates in their differentiation and cornification.
• Tanning or delayed pigmentation: This pigmentation occurs two or three days after exposure, with a maximum range of three weeks after exposure. Then, it fades progressively in the absence of new exposure through natural desquamation of the superficial layers of the epidermis. This pigmentation is linked to new synthesis of melanin by melanocytes and an increased transfer of melanin to the keratinocytes. Tanning plays an essential role in natural photoprotection.
• Influence of certain kinds of dermatoses (acne): Exposure to solar radiation leads to a thickening of the epidermis, which tends to block the pilosebaceous follicles and therefore to prevent the removal of sebum; furthermore, the anti-inflammatory action of UV rays dries visible pustules. This phenomenon gives the impression that acne has improved. However, this effect, called summer hyperkeratosis, is only temporary. The sebum that cannot be removed stimulates the formation of comedones and micro-cysts, which will appear once UV exposure stops.

3/ UVA rays

UVA has a wavelength from 315 to 380 nm. We distinguish between short UVA wavelengths (between 315 and 340 nm) and long UVA wavelengths (between 340 and 380 nm). It is not easily absorbed by the ozone layer, and thus almost 95% of this radiation gets through. It easily penetrates the skin, with about 20% to 30% reaching the medium dermis.

Impact on the skin:

• Immediate pigmentation or the Meirowsky phenomenon: UVA is responsible for the Meirowsky phenomenon, an immediate and temporary grayish-brown skin discoloration that appears a few minutes after prolonged exposure to the sun. This discoloration is due to photo-oxidation of the pre-existing melanin under the influence of UVA; it peaks in less than an hour and disappears progressively in a few hours.
• Generation of free radicals: UVA is also able to indirectly modify DNA by provoking the generation of free radicals. These are responsible for deterioration of lipids, proteins, and DNA in chromosomal and cellular DNA, as well as the destruction of collagen and elastin fibers. Free Radicals are, among other things, responsible for skin aging.

4/ UVA and UVB

UVA and UVB radiation has combined effects and acts synergistically on the skin.

• Sunburn: Sunburn occurs several hours after intense exposure to the sun and can last several days. Its appearance is easily recognizable by all, and it presents four levels of severity depending on the amount of sun received and the phototype: roseate, bright red, cyanic, edematous and painful with the appearance of blisters. In the repair phase, the skin peels profusely to eliminate dead keratinocytes. During sunburn, it is UVB that is most aggressive, but UVA, while less active, is more numerous and, in the end, plays a part in the attack as well.
• Heliodermy or photo-induced cutaneous aging: The sun ages the skin differently than natural aging; it does not simply accelerate the aging process, it makes different cells (keratinocytes and melanocytes) able to evolve toward carcinogenesis, which does not simply provoke intrinsic aging. UVB stimulates cell proliferation in the skin’s superficial layer, which thickens the epidermis.
  The deep penetration of UVA into dermal tissue destroys the elastin and collagen fibers that provide tissue with resistance and elasticity, leading to a relaxing of these tissues, a loss of firmness of the skin, and the appearance of wrinkles.
  In terms of the cells, skin that has aged naturally shows an overall decrease in the activity and number of fibroblasts, which are responsible for making collagen and elastin. The sun’s action, on the other hand, maintains the overall population of fibroblasts at a high level, but these fibroblasts are altered and manufacture poor-quality elastic fibers.
  The skin becomes wrinkled, develops spots, and loses its smoothness. It can also thicken, particularly on the neck, or become thinner on the forearms and the backs of the hands, or the number of sebaceous glands may increase on the face. The appearance of early wrinkles is attributable to sun exposure. It occurs primarily on the exposed areas of the face and neck.

• DNA damage: Cellular DNA is the ultimate target of attack for UVB rays. Nucleic acid absorbs UVB radiation, which creates specific bonds. UVA alters DNA via the intermediary of reactive oxygen species that are responsible for chain ruptures, protein-nucleobase crosslinking and oxidative damage to base pairs. These abnormal links then lead to a modification of the DNA’s structure, which alters the normal operation of DNA polymerase, an enzymatic complex that is involved in replication. This consists of the replication of genetic information through the replication of the DNA molecule (a parent strand with a newly synthesized strand). In the long term, if this occurs repeatedly, these abnormal links will overwhelm the DNA repair system. Indeed, these pairing errors are normally detected by enzymes that cut off the short fragment of DNA containing the error and eliminate it. DNA polymerase ensures the synthesis of the missing portion, which repairs the DNA. If these anomalies are not detected, they can lead to potentially carcinogenic cell mutations, such as melanoma or carcinoma.

  

 

 

• Skin cancers

 

Sunscreen in Australia

Sunscreen provide one of the best ways to protect yourself from the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays. Australia has one of the highest rates of skin cancer in the world.

Sunscreens contain substances that either absorb or reflect UV rays. They prevent most UV rays from penetrating the skin and damaging skin cells. Many Australians use sunscreens daily. This is why sunscreens need to be regulated in Australia to ensure they are safe, efficacious and of good quality.

Only approved ingredients can be included in sunscreens, and each of these ingredients has been assessed for safety and quality.

Sunscreen products come in many forms including creams and aerosol sprays. The amount of a sunscreen you need to use is explained on the label and when used as intended should provide the appropriate protection.

The TGA requires the efficacy of each sunscreen product to be tested to determine the sun protection factor (SPF). The SPF value for the product is printed on the label.

TGA regulates sunscreens in Australia that are classified as therapeutic goods (therapeutic sunscreens) to make sure they are safe, efficacious and high quality. This means that therapeutic sunscreens need to meet all the legal requirements for therapeutic goods before they can be supplied in Australia. Sunscreens in the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (ARTG) are approved for supply in Australia. Most sunscreens in the ARTG are listed (lower risk) medicines.

Therapeutic sunscreens include:

• Primary sunscreens: Products that are used primarily for protection from UV radiation.
• Some secondary sunscreens: Products with a primary purpose other than sun protection, that also contain sun screening agents and are not excluded from therapeutic goods legislation. E.g. sunbathing and moisturising skin care products with an SPF of over 15.

(tga.gov.au)

The eye contour is the thinnest, most fragile and strained area of the whole body. In fact, it is 3 to 5 times thinner than the skin of the rest of the face. We blink approximately 10,000 times per day thanks to 22muscles that ensure proper eye function and maintain corneal hydration.

 

Biologique Recherche eye care protocol:

 

1/ Cleanse with Solution Démaquillante pour les Yeux

A makeup removing solution for the eyes.

Shake well to combine the multiphase solution. Soak a cotton round with Solution Démaquillante pour les Yeux, hold to closed

eyes for a few moments to allow the product to work and gently dab to remove makeup. This product is designed to hydrate and

treat the delicate skin of the eye contour, its solution can be left on as skin care. With ingredients boasting the same composition

as our own tears, Solution Démaquillante pour les Yeux is an extremely gentle yet effective eye cleansing treatment product.

 

2/ Treat with eye serums

Dr Allouche, does not believe in using eye cremes at night due to the hygroscopic nature of creme formulations and the potential for fluid retention around the delicate eye area.
For this reason, Biologique Recherche have developed eye care serums to use at night, keeping the eye cremes for the morning only.
We have a range of serums that are designed to be used around the eye, (in a cute 8ml size or 30ml).

 

           

Serum Liposmose, Anti-puffiness serum for the eyes, can be used alone, cocktailed or layered with Serum Oligo-Proteines-Marines, for dark circles, or Serum Elastine, for lines and wrinkles.

You can personalise according to your Skin Instant©.

 

3/ Treat with eye serums continued:

Option to apply Serum Yall O2 finishing serum on top for extra hydration at night, if needed.

Massage process for eye serums:

Apply a few drops as shown in below diagram to cleansed skin and massage puffy areas indirection shown puffy areas until completely absorbed.
*Please note that all serums are best kept in fridge.

 

4/ Treat with eye creme:

• Crème Contour des Yeux et Lèvres Biofixine – Lifting and anti-wrinkle creme for the eye and lips
• Crème Contour des Yeux Biosensible – High tolerance hydrating eye creme
• Crème Contour des Yeux VIP O2 – Brightening eye creme

Massage process for eye creme:

Our cremes are kept for morning applications. Press down on the applicator and apply a rice grain sized amount of creme. Perform a draining eye massage with the cold ZAMAC tip to assist with lymphatic drainage and fluid. Slide the tip inwards and press at the tear duct. Apply over the orbital rim and lift the brow.

 

 

5/ Treat with eye masque:

Patchs Défatigants – Anti-fatigue and hydrating eye mask

• Anti-puffiness action thanks to caffeine and a di-peptide that optimised lymphatic circulation and reduces capillary permeability.
• Anti-dehydration lines thanks to multi-weight Hyaluronic Acid.
• Complexe of matrikines and flavonoids to address dark circles
• Cassava and a polysaccharide help to strengthen the dermis to address lines and wrinkles.

Massage process for eye masque:

These masques are best kept in the fridge and applied at night. The multi-weight Hyaluronic acid and the polysaccharide can be a little sticky so it is not designed for use under makeup. Apply for 15-20 mins in the evening.
Option: perform a draining massage with our Cryo-sticks frozen massage tool on top of the patch as shown below in the diagram.

 

Hyper-pigmentation is the over secretion and uneven distribution of melanin, as well as an accumulation of lipofuscin (oxidized lipids and proteins) in the upper layers of the skin (epidermis).

The melanocytes (pigment producing cells) are octopus shaped cells that make melanin in a process called melanogenesis upon exposure to UV or factors that have been stimulated by internal causes, like hormones or inflammation. These melanin producing cells, then use their ‘octopus like arms’ deliver melanosomes (packets of melanin) to the surrounding skin cells. The melanin producing cells are located in the bottom layer of the epidermis this means that 70% of pigmentation spots are superficial. In this case it is easier to treat and alter their appearance in the surface. When there is inflammation or disruption to the base of the epidermis the melanocyte can poke the little ‘octopus arms’ through the epidermal/dermal junction and deposit packets of melanin deeper in the dermis. This is more difficult to treat topically.

All skin types can be susceptible to irregular pigmentation seen as freckles, solar lentigo (sun spots), melasma (hormones), ‘liver spots’ (lipofuscin) Post Inflammatory Hyper-pigmentation (scarring, acne). Biologique Recherche have diagnostic machines, the VisioLab, that can help your trained therapist diagnose the type and depth of your pigmentation.

 

 

This natural phenomenon of hyperpigmentation is often caused by

• Exposure to the sun (63% of pigment spots are due to the sun)
• Hormone imbalances including pregnancy and the contraceptive pill (24% of spots are due to hormones)
• The passing of time – Lipofuscin (oxidised cellular waste) accumulation from ageing process
• Medications
• Inflammation

New research shows that Advanced Glycation End products (AGE) can also trigger hyperpigmentation. Glycation is primarily known for its role in the production of wrinkles; it leads to the rigidification of dermal fibres, thus affecting its functionality. However a scientific paper in 2016¹ shows a link between glycation and pigmentation. AGEs are capable of binding to the melanocyte receptors and stimulating melanin synthesis.

 

What can we do to unify our natural pigment for a homogenous complexion?

Biologique Recherche have developed a comprehensive range targeted to the treatment of irregular pigmentation; several strategies are used in our range to treat the appearance of irregular pigmentation marks:

• Reinforce prevention: integrate a broad spectrum, high sun protection factor (SPF) against UVA and UVB rays which activate the synthesis of melanin.
• Enhance exfoliation: this process helps lighten the marks by eliminating the melanin present in the upper layers of the epidermis.
• Limit oxidation: anti-free radical substances help reduce oxidation which plays an important role in all aging and pigmentation phenomena.
• Inhibit excessive melanogenesis with targeted active ingredients to limit the over-production of melanin.
• Prevent the accumulation of Lipofuscin and cellular waste
• Prevent and reduce glycation

 

Biologique Recherche Solution:

Biologique Recherche has developed a comprehensive range targeted to the treatment of irregular pigmentation. Several strategies are used in our range to treat the appearance of irregular pigmentation marks.

Our PIGM 400 Range uses active ingredients that are natural or bioavailable compounds which can act in two ways:

• At a cell level by reducing the number of melanin producing cells or by blocking the transfer of melanin to the skin cells.
• At a biochemical level by blocking the tyrosinase enzyme, a key component in melanin synthesis process.

 

1/Lotion P50 PIGM 400

Lotion P50 PIGM 400 is a gentle exfoliating lotion that is ideal for dull complexions with hyperpigmentation marks. It enhances epidermal renewal and helps regulate melanin synthesis while respecting and protecting the skin. It balances the pH on the skin’s surface and improves the strength and quality of the epidermis. This is a complete solution that helps to recover a luminous and radiant skin with an even and lightened complexion.

Ingredients:

Complexe of AHA’s, BHA’s and PHA’s to enhance shedding of surface pigmentated cells giving radiance and improved light reflections.

Apple Cider Vinegar with purifying and astringent properties

Niacinamide to prevent melanin transfer to skin cells

 

2/Masque PIGM 400

Masque PIGM 400 is a brightening and radiance booster masque for dull and pigmented skin. This highly concentrated formula with exceptional brightening and antioxidant active ingredients, helps to improve the overall appearance of the complexion by working on the skin’s luminosity and evening out any irregularities in pigmentation.

Ingredients:

Stabilised Vitamin C as powerful antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitor

Dulse seaweed extract to assist in treating uneven pigmentation spots by preventing excessive melanogenesis

A- Glucan Detox stimulates breakdown of pigmented cells, contributing to their detoxification

Caviar Lime Extract – gentle AHA to help shed surface pigmented cells

 

3/µ-Fill PIGM 400

These patches adhere to the skin and are covered with micro-cones that stick deep into the epidermis to release their brightening active ingredients as close as possible to melanin producing cells to visibly reduce the intensity of the pigmentation mark. This innovation enables the in-depth treatment of localised pigmentation irregularities.

The micro-cones in these single-use patches are made up of 100% hyaluronic acid, solidified anti- melanogenesis, anti-glycation and antioxidant active ingredients. They are capable of penetrating the deepest layers of the epidermis, where they dissolve completely to release and disseminate active ingredients as close as possible to the melanocytes.

Ingredients:

Hexylresorcinol (an ester from hexyl alcohol & lauric acid) produces an antioxidant effect to protect cells & control melanin production. Skin is brighter and more even.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Acts on lipid and protein synthesis and helps inhibit the transfer of melanosomes to the keratinocytes. Also helps to lighten and protect the skin from oxidative stress.

Tranexamic acid to limit inflammatory reactions that can trigger melanin production and prevent their formation.

L-Carnosine is a peptide known for anti-glycation and antioxidant actions to prevent the AGE binding to melanocytes

Vitamin C which has powerful antioxidant and protective effects, reduces the oxidation of the proteins responsible for pigmentation marks.

 

4/ Sérum PIGM 400

Sérum PIGM 400 prevents and reduces the appearance of pigmentation marks while limiting the appearance of new marks on the face. It reduces irregularities and brightens the complexion. It also has antioxidant properties to combat cellular aging. It controls the accumulation of lipofuscin thanks to its six concentrated active ingredients. It acts on four stages of the melanogenesis process and on the regulation of melanosomes by controlling their size, number, maturation and migration.

Ingredients:

Peptides: prevent the migration, maturation, multiplication of melanocytes 9pigment producing cells) and is a powerful tyrosinase inhibitor to stop the excessive production of melanin

Antioxidants: anti-free radical substances help reduce oxidation which plays an important role in all aging and pigmentation phenomena

 

5/Crème PIGM 400

Crème PIGM 400 provides immediate action. Like the serum from the same range, it prevents pigmentation marks and reduces the intensity of existing marks while limiting the appearance of new marks on the face. It also evens out the complexion and reduces irregularities. Its anti-free radical action also helps combat cellular aging. This treatment acts on three stages of the melanogenesis process and helps regulate the accumulation of lipofuscin which causes the pigmentation marks.

Ingredients:

Young Watercress shoots and plump pulp extract: prevents/limits the appearance of new spots. Unifies the complexion and reduces irregularity.

Pure Genistein from soybeans: prevents to excess production of melanin

Wasabi and Vitamin E: Antioxidant

 

6/ Emulsion Mains PIGM 400

Emulsion Mains PIGM 400 unifies and reduces irregularities and immediately brightens the appearance of the hands. It also reduces the appearance of existing pigmentation marks while limiting the appearance of new marks. It regenerates, restructures and reconditions the epidermis.

 

 

Biologique Recherche also have a complete range of only in clinic products and treatment options to diagnose and treat your individual pigment concerns, as there are many different types and causes of irregular pigmentation we invite you to contact your nearest Biologique Recherche centre for a personalised program and advice to treat your specific pigmentation concerns.

Our skins natural oils are called sebum which is secreted by the sebaceous glands and present throughout the body; it is found in abundance on the face, scalp, neck, shoulders, upper back and torso. On the face, sebum is mostly present in the middle or ‘T’ zone (nose, forehead and cheeks)

Sebum is a complex mixture of different types of oils and is natural and necessary for the skin to function properly. It participates in the development of the hydrolipidic film, which is a critical barrier for healthy skin, protecting your skin from external elements and maintaining the skins’ suppleness. If excessively oily skin is not properly treated, the pores fill, expand and then become clogged, creating an area conducive to bacteria development and therefore inflammation.

 

There are different types of oily skin:

Fluent Seborrhoea: Where the mix of oils in sebum is thin and silky allowing the oil to flow freely out of the follicle and onto the surface of the skin. The complexion may look dull and have a shiny appearance, but this type of oiliness doesn’t have blemishes.

Retentive Seborrhoea: Where androgen hormones create a waxy type of sebum that is too thick to flow freely therefore is stuck in the follicle and further blocked by accumulation of dead skin cells. Visible blemishes are present such as blackheads, dilated pores and microcysts lying dormant under the skin. This creates the perfect environment for P. Acnes to thrive which then can lead to pustules.

 

While not all oily skin is acne-prone, most types of acne-prone skin originally suffer from excess sebum.

The Biologique Recherche Skin Instant Lab diagnostic machine has a Sebumeter probe that can measure your individual sebum output and a Tewameter to measure the quality of your lipidic shield which gives a definitive diagnosis for the current state of your personal Skin Instant and sebum levels.

 

 

The Three Causes of Acne: 

Three factors are instrumental in the formation of Acne lesions and Biologique Recherche acne protocols aim to treat all three causes of acne, not just the symptoms, to prevent and stop new acne as well as correcting active acne lesions and healing post blemish marks.

The three causes of Acne accepted by the field of dermatology are:

• Hyper seborrhoea: is the excess production of sebum making the skin look shiny. This phenomenon may be linked to many external and internal factors such as hormones, stress, medication, genes, climate, pollution, etc…
• Bacteria: the bacterium ‘Propionibacterium Acnes’ or ‘Cutibacterium Acnes’, which is naturally found in humans but poses a problem where there is excess sebum as this is what it feeds on. In such cases, it contributes to the formation of inflammation and inflammatory lesions, such as papules or pustules.
• A keratinization disorder: Excess dead cells accumulate on the surface or in the follicle walls but are unable to disperse and shed, thus forming micro-comedones (keratin plugs) which prevent the sebum from flowing normally.

 

Treatment: 

It is important to have a Skin Instant Lab diagnosis with a Dermal Therapist as there are multiple causes and targeted treatments available. Your trained Biologique Recherche therapist will be able to understand and guide you to the correct treatment options according to your individual needs without triggering an old imbalance. We invite you to check with your nearest Biologique Recherche centre for an Online Consultation if you cannot visit in person.

 

Some general products for breakout prone skin are as follows:

1/ Cleanser: Lait U

Gentle and effective milk cleanser designed to perfectly emulsify excess sebum and debris without stripping. Leaving no residue, Lait U sets your skin at the perfect pH to be able to receive your preferred Lotion P50 formula. Cleansing with Lait U is crucial step in maintaining balanced skin and being able to successfully continue to treat breakout prone skin.

Application: Apply the amount of a 20-cent piece with dry hands onto a dry face. (the most common mistake when using a milk cleanser is using it on wet skin) Massage to emulsify oil and dirt then rinse with cool water.

Please repeat for a double cleanse if you wish.

 

2/ Lotion: The Lotion P50 formula adapted to your individual tolerance for exfoliation.

All Lotion P50 variations have sebo-regulating ingredients to help balance sebum without drying. They also help to fortify the epidermis by normalising epidermal cell turn over and help to prevent the dead skin cells becoming trapped in the pores and helps to balance out the bacteria living on the skins surface. This is targeting all three causes for breakouts.

Hailed as a ‘facial in a bottle’ Lotion P50 family of products are progressive, purifying, cleansing, balancing and re-conditioning liquid exfoliants. A unique low pH formulation that aids in the skin being able to regain its original regenerative qualities and radiance.

All Lotion P50’s gently exfoliates the skin with a combination of AHA’s, BHA’s and PHA’s whilst also harnessing the benefits of powerful botanical, mineral and vitamin extracts to:

• regulate excessive sebum
• purifies and clears debris from pores
• prevents lipid oxidation within the pore
• lift dull cells
• balances the surface pH of the skin therefore creating the environment for healthy microflora to thrive, crowding out P.Acnes
• improves the quality and fortifies the epidermis
• unifies epidermal cells
• allows for exceptional light reflection off of the skin’s surface
• improves the efficacy of following Biologique Recherche products used after

Application: It is important to use the Lotion P50 formula after cleansing the skin with a milk cleanser that respects the pH and barrier of the skin. The first week, add a few drops of Lotion P50 to a cotton pad pre-dampened with water then gently pat/press over face, neck and décolletage in ascending movements. On subsequent days, a dry cotton pad should be used. If tingling is felt as the skin’s pH is balancing itself, some Biologique Recherche L’Eauxygénante misted over the face will alleviate it.

Work up to using Lotion P50 directly onto dry cotton pads twice a day. May be used morning and night once you skin has fully adjusted.

It is normal in the beginning to experience some tingling and redness, this will subside as your skin adjusts. We suggest to continue with the Lotion P50 formula adapted to your individual tolerance for exfoliation for 50 days (approx. two epidermal cycles) Some breakouts may continue to occur for the first couple of weeks as your skin is expelling any micro-comedones lodged deeper in the skin.

Not recommended for use in conjunction with a foaming cleanser, retinoids or other exfoliating products.

 

3/ Masque: Masque Vivant

Masque Vivant has purifying and balancing ingredients, our famous yeast extract high in B vitamins. You can patch this one with Masque VIP O2 for detoxing and calming. Masque Vivant through the oily T-zone or areas of breakouts and Masque VIP O2 on the other areas.

Application: Apply after the Lotion P50 step and leave Masque Vivant and/or Masque VIP O2  to work for 15-20mins. Rinse with cool water. You can do this a couple of times per week.

 

4/ Serum: Complexe Iribiol

Complexe Iribiol is the solution to active breakouts and acne lesions. This purifying serum used directly on the breakout will alleviate inflammation while breaking down the waxy sebum and cellular debris core trapped inside the follicle. Containing Salicylic Acid, a lipid loving BHA that helps to effectively clean ‘inside’ the pore or follicle wall, dislodging micro-comedones and thick sebum.

Zinc is a sebum regulating ingredient that inhibits an enzyme responsible for stimulating excess sebum from hormones.

Application: Apply to clean skin, directly onto the spot or locally on the area of breakout.

 

5/ Crème: Crème Dermopurifiante

Crème Dermopurifiante is the ultimate sebum-regulating treatment. Its sebo-regulating active ingredient Rose Hip and Complexe of Enanthia Chlorantha with Oleanic Acid   help prevent excessive oil secretions and free the blocked follicle by deactivating sebum producing cells. Its purifying ingredients cleanse the skin to limit the proliferation of bacteria that cause inflammation resulting in a red pimple on the skin’s surface. It thus acts to regulate the production of sebum and purify the epidermis, ridding the skin of its imperfections and preventing their reappearance. Finally, its soothing and dermo-protective ingredients of Arnica and Centella Asiatica limit the inflammatory reaction that causes redness. The product purifies and mattifies the skin without drying it out; it also tightens the pores while evening out the complexion.

Crème Dermopurifiante is the go-to product for oily, acne-prone skin. It targets the causes and consequences of the underlying seborrheic mechanism, cleansing and purifying the skin in order to mattify it and rid it of its imperfections.

Application: Apply in the morning and/or evening onto cleansed skin. Delicately massage the face, neck and décolleté until complete penetration.

 

In Clinic:

Biologique Recherche have professional strength in-clinic treatment options to professionally deep cleanse the pores to treat acne and breakouts. The Biologique Recherche Remodelling Face machine has a desincrustation feature that uses currents to saponify waxy sebum and dead skin cells from the follicle, dislodging the core of breakouts with no irritation. Our therapists are trained to target the causes and consequences of the underlying seborrheic mechanism and your skin should be tended to professionally once every epidermal cell cycle (approx. every 25-30 days) as part of an Acne treatment plan. We always recommend that you seek out advice from a trained Biologique Recherche therapist for a personalised treatment plan.